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SHOCK/STRUT REPLACEMENT Can I do this myself? Yes! (Mostly anyway -read on..) The procedure is not difficult. But you will need some special tools. Specifically, I'm referring to spring compressors. If you don't have a set of these, buy them! They can be had for cheap (I bought mine new for $10 at Harbor Freight Tools). If you are really strapped for cash, you can even borrow a set from a local chain auto parts store for free. Just do NOT use the brute force method. Sure it can be done that way, but WHY? Why risk injury for not having a tool that can be had for less than $10? Just do it safely, OK? All right (off soap box) :) . On another note, having an impact wrench will make the install go smoothly. It's not necessary, but it'll help with the lower strut bolts and the spring compressor. There is one caveat to all this. Replacing the shocks will require a wheel alignment. Unless you have a keen eye or know the tricks of "do-it-yourself" aligning, then plan on doing the install on a day that you can soon take the car to a nearby alignment shop after the install is done. How it's done 1. Lift the front of the car up and get it on jack stands (don't forget the chocks). 2. Remove your front wheels and set them aside. 3. Break loose but DO NOT remove the top strut bolt. This is so when it comes time to remove it, you're not having to hold/hug the spring/strut assembly as you twist this bolt off. Might as well break it loose now while the car's chassis is holding the strut assembly still for you. (Note: if you have air tools, then this step probably won't matter.) It's the one with the green arrow. (The yellow arrows are removed later.) 
4. Now its time to remove the stuff connected to the strut before you can pull it out. This mostly involves the brake lines and ABS if you have it. Start with this: (focus on the yellow arrows only). It's a clip that's holding your brake line. Use a screwdriver (and rubber mallet if you have to) to prod the clip off away from the strut. 
The pic on the right is a zoom in on the clip. I highlighted it in red to note its orientation. Look for another connection thats basically snapped on and pull it off. 
Lastly, if you have ABS, there's a 10mm screw holding a bracket and line in place. Take this off too. (Sorry no pic) When you see that there are no other lines mounted on the strut, you can now proceed to pulling it out. 5. Place a jack underneath the lower control arm as shown. This will help in holding things in place and assist in reassembly. 
6. Remove the top three strut mount bolts. (See the figure in step 3, yellow arrows) 7. Remove the two bottom strut bolts and pull out the strut assembly. (see step 4 -the green arrows this time). 8. Note (ie with tape) where both ends of the springs go AND the orientation of the spring (ie which end of the spring is UP - locate any writing on the spring to help you do this. For my Eibachs, the word Eibach is right side up, as you would read it normally.) The pic below shows a peice of tape where the top of the spring ends. (Note this picture was taken after completing steps 9 and 10) 
9. With the spring compressors, compress the spring to remove the tension on the top part of the assembly. 
10. Then remove the bolt you loosened in step 3 and disassemble the strut. PAY ATTENTION as to the order of the parts as you remove them. In the pic below, we lined up the parts sequentially. 
11. Now, using your new strut/shock, reinsert the spring (still compressed by the spring compressors). Reconstruct the top strut assembly in reverse order in which you did step 10. (See how easy it is when you keep the parts in order?) 12. Once you reinserted and tightened down the top strut bolt (again this is the bolt you loosened in step 3), release the springs from the spring compressors. PAY ATTENTION TO SPRING ALIGNMENT. 13. Reinsert the strut in the wheel well and push it up so that the three screws are protruding in the engine bay. (the ones in the picture of step 3. Tighten but do not necessarily torque the three bolts. 14. Align the bottom part of the strut and insert the two big screws. Torque down the bolts to 103 to 117 ft-lbs. 15. Tighen the top three bolts to 29 to 40 ft-lbs. Tighten the center bolt to 43 to 58 ft-lbs. 16. Reattach the brake lines. 17. Change the shock on the other side using the above steps. 18. When you complete the other side, put your wheels back on and lower the car. 19. RECHECK the torque on all top four bolts for each side when the car is back on the ground and the struts are supporting the weight of the car. 20. That's it. Now take the car to the shop and get your front wheels realigned. |